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We conclude our travel in Ogliastra, from the plateau of the Golgo to Triei, Urzulei with its Supramonte, and Talana, in order then to enter in Barbagia

In this stage of our journey, the last of our trip in the Province of Ogliastra, visit the Golgo plateau, ie the top of the limestone plateau of Baunei with the Crack of Golgo, also called on Sterru. Triei visit, and his Urzulei Supramonte then Talana. From here we continue with our journey into recandoci Barbagia.

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The plateau of Golgo  

Opposite the Parish Baunei, following the signs for the Church of San Pietro Golgo, take a road with a steep slope to the beautiful limestone plateau of Golgo. This is a vast area of limestone sinkhole that was filled with during the Quaternary basaltic lava flows. The plateau is a vast expanse of Golgo more or less flat, located about 400 meters above sea level. The extension is bounded by dolomite ridges crossed by rivers and streams and narrow passes leading to the sea.

Archaeological remains of the Golgo plateau

Along the road from Baunei Golgo limestone plateau, five km very steep paths, we arrive at the crossing on the right for Nuragh Serra Coe. Following the directions, after a mile parked in a clearing. About 150 meters away, on a hill on the right road, we see the Nuragh, built in a dominant position and with an irregular shape to fit the rock on which it is built. Coe and the Nuragh Serra is a complex consisting of a central tower around which are the remains of several towers side, some of which are connected by a bastion. It is, however, largely collapsed, covered by the abundant vegetation, so it is hard to identify the original plan. Around Nuragh be glimpsed, also covered by vegetation, the remains of circular huts that made up the Prehistoric Village.

Golgo the abyss

Returning back from the detour to the Nuragh, continue straight for two miles, then take a detour on the right, which brings us a few hundred meters of the edge Golgo abyss, also called On Sterru (The pit). The chasm of karstic origin, is one of the deepest natural caves of Sardinia and Europe and is among the deepest chasms in individual fields. Spread to a depth 270 meters, with elliptical horizontal section that reaches 25 meters in diameter in the central section and 40 meters in diameter in the large room that opens at its base. Inside the pit is an interesting fauna, including inter alia the geotritone Sardinian (Hydromantes gene) has adapted over time to an amphibious life in the cave closed. The chasm has been recognized as a Natural Monument by the Regional Law No 31, june 7,1989.

The Shrine of San Pietro in Golgo Betils with anthropomorphic

On return from the detour Sterru, continue on the main road for just over a mile and arrive at the country Church or Shrine of St. Peter Golgo, about 10 km from the village. It was probably built in the late '600 and early '700 thanks to the offerings of the shepherds in the area. Tell us, in fact, a legend that once, a huge snake living in hiding and terrified the country Golgo Baunei, calling the offer of seven girls to devour. But St. Peter had shown a young, desperate for the fate that lay ahead, and said it would build a Church dedicated to him was finally removed the snake and made the sacrifices to cease. Hence the supply of pastors for the edification of the Church, built with stone of medium size and with the whitewashed facade. At the center of the facade there is a belfry with a bell in the central light. Around the Church are the structures that served as a shelter for pilgrims and their animals during the days of the festival dedicated to the Holy are here termed "stàulus' and form an enclosure within which is the Church. The last Sunday of June at this Church there is the Feast of St. Peter Golgo, with musical performances and folk, horse racing, and sampling of grilled meat specialties.

Outside the fence, was placed in the 70's the famous Betils anthropomorphic Golgo, 1.21 meters high, made of basalt, the only one in the whole island on which is carved in relief a human face. It is believed that the anthropomorphic Betils not represent the symbol of fertility, such as isolated Menhirs, but had statues erected in honor of gods or in memory of deceased heroes or warriors. The anthropomorphic Betils Golgo was in a Prehistoric Village nearby, from where he was brought before the Church.

From Golgo descend to the sea in the coves below and find the archaeological remains

Golgo found near a trail that came down for about an hour and a half door on the coast below, the beautiful Cala Goloritzè. And also, just before the Church, there is a deviation to the right that continues to bring to codula of Sisine, who traveled on foot or by jeep door to the sea in the beautiful Haul Sisine. The term codula indicates a narrow valley surrounded by limestone walls that usually leads to very high in a small cove on the sea. The two creeks are described in the next step when we get there by sea.

Taking the road to codula of Sisine, after less than a kilometer are an indication for Nuragh orgoduri Which are on top of a hill in a dominant position. It is a Nuragh complex with a central keep and at least three side towers, connected by a rampart, but the many failures make it impossible to visit, and of which it is hard even to guess the original plan. It is well preserved only a section of the rampart connecting the side towers, which opens on one of the inputs that probably led to a courtyard, now blocked off by landslides. Around the Nuragh, and on the slopes of the hill are the remains a major Prehistoric Village of circular huts, some of which are at the foot of the hill are well preserved.

Triei  

Back to Baunei, sS125 resume that leads in and leads to dall'Ogliastra Barbagia on Supramonte Baunei, flanking the plateau west of Golgo. Just one kilometer from Baunei, a deviation to the left on SP55 leads, after 3.5 km, the agricultural village Triei (name in Sardinian language Trie, 140 meters, 1.171 inhabitants). It is said that the first settlement was in place Osono, where, however, perhaps because of a plague, the inhabitants were transferred downstream. And, to be accepted by the shepherds who lived there, they brought with them the stones of the houses Osono, with which they built the village now called trie. A legend attributes the abandonment of the first settlement but not the plague of the terrible attacks "MUSCA maccedda" of which we have already discussed when we described Collinas, the Middle Campidano.

In the center is the Church Parish Church dedicated to Saints Cosmas and Damian, which dates back to at least '600, while the tabernacle was built in 1781. It is a Church with a Latin cross, surmounted by a dome. Recently, some restoration work led to the discovery, under the plaster of some valuable paintings.

Archaeological remains in the dintroni Triei

Continuing on the SP55 about two kilometers after Triei, are left on the local road to Bau and sources Osono Nuraxi. We follow it for about four kilometers until the end of the paved road, and reach the plain on the right bank of the Rio Murta, the nuragic Bau Nuraxi. It is a complex Nuragh made of rough blocks of local granite largely recovered along the stream. Is composed of a central tower and four side towers, connected by a defensive rampart rampart.completely covered by dense vegetation that prevented any understanding of its original plan, has been in the mid 90s two restoration campaigns, which have uncovered a considerable aMount of material. Nearby are the remains of the Dolmen of a Prehistoric Village composed of dozens of circular huts, some of them large. Although the village is, however, in a state of complete abandonment and submerged vegetation.

About three kilometers from Bau nuragic Nuraxi was found the Tomb of the Giants of Osono Called by locals S'Iscusorgeddu. Built with blocks of white limestone, was completely covered by Mediterranean scrub, until, in mid 90s, were made restoration work revealed the tomb complex. Because of its characteristics is the most interesting Tombs of the Giants of the island. It was built on a gently sloping terrain cross, while in the longitudinal direction the ground is almost a donkey. Therefore, to achieve the horizontal plane, was created with stones of granite, schist and white limestone an impressive mound, which is its base. The semicircular with a diameter of less than 19 meters, and consists of twelve stones fixed vertically in the ground. The tomb mound and have a length of more than 22 meters. The burial chamber is 10 meters long,75 cm wide, with roof lintels. During the restoration, was found a small bronze dagger with a triangular base with three holes for the handle and some fragments of pots decorated with comb. Around the grave are the remains of ten rooms, perhaps parts of a Shrine or houses, also used in Roman and medieval times. Of these various ages were found skeletal remains, plus several shards of glass and coins, including one belonging to the Emperor Alexander Severus.

Urzulei  

Back on the SS125,20 kilometers from Baunei we left the road on the SP37, after 3.5 km brings us to Urzulei (name in Sardinian language Orthullè, 511 meters, 1.446 inhabitants), pastoral village on the slopes of Mount Gruttas, more than 1000 meters high, with a pointed shape and imposing. The charm of Urzulei is linked to the natural environment in which it is immersed. Frequented by Nuraghesc period in the fifth century saw Urzulei get the first evangelists of the Christian Church greek-byzantine, who spread the devotion of saints eastern.

The Church Parish of St. John the Baptist, the last of the '600 and early '700, was built at the expense of a certain John Murgia, a native of Urzulei, in atonement for a crime committed. The old wooden pulpit, built in 1840 by an artisan of Dorgali, was demolished during the renovation in 1958. In 1973, a restructuring has led to the extension of a span in the longitudinal direction and has made connecting chapels: The Church is now with three aisles instead of one as it was.

The St. George's Church Bishop, of the early '500, is the oldest in Sardinia, built in honor of the town's patron saint, saint George, bishop of Suelli. It is believed to have been incurred on an earlier Church, as the devotion to the Holy developed immediately after his death April 23 of 1117, following the miracles worked by him. San Giorgio big the celebrations�of are reserved in August.

The small Church of St. Anthony of Padua a painting of unknown author, st. Anthony of Padua, in 1633, and a picture of Saint Anthony in 1919, painted on canvas by an Austrian prisoner, who was in the Parish of St. John the Baptist before restoration of 1958.

The game of Morra

A Urzulei is popular the game of Morra.

Around Urzulei

Mannorry was a medieval village a few kilometers from Urzulei and was destroyed in 1776 by a killing that has erased all traces. According to legend, the cause was the kiss given by a young pretender to a girl, who came accompanied by her mother and other women, a Feast day, the Angel of the Church, which stood at Mount of the road, and of which there are only traces of the foundations. Here the inhabitants of Urzulei built a few years later, the rural Church or Shrine of San Basilio, which each year hosts the third Sunday of June, the Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary and San Basilio.

As mentioned, Urzulei was attended by up nuragic period. In cave Sa Domu 's'Orcu, Mount Gruttas overlooking the town, were discovered in the mid '20s, several bronzes including the most significant, representing a mother and son in her lap, was named the Man's mother. The son, sitting with his hands resting on knees and feet up, dressed like adults, with a dagger and a cap. The statuette has been interpreted as a pity, that a mother who claims her dead son, or as the representation of two gods, or as a representation of a mother who thanks the gods because the child is hurt again except by war. It is currently kept at the Archaeological Museum of Cagliari.

In a flat area about 80 meters from cuile Sedda Ar Baccas At the foot of a rocky outcrop, is a monumental tree rate (Taxus Bacata),12 meters high and estimated age of 500 years. In 2001, the Ministry of Heritage and Culture has declared the tree of public interest.

Supramonte Urzulei of the Gorge Su Gorropu

The Supramonte Urzulei forms, together with Supramonte Orgosolo Oliena Dorgali Baunei, a vast plateau consists mainly of limestone and dolomite, which date from the Mesozoic era. The Supramonte Urzulei is no less impressive than that of Baunei, we just passed, nor that of Dorgali that meet a little later.

Here is the Gorge Su Gorropu, also called on Gorroppu Gorruppu or on which, with its length of some kilometers and a depth in some places reaches 450 meters, is considered the deepest canyon in Europe. This is a deep split, carved over millennia by the waters of the Rio Flumineddu, from lake Cedrino. It is located between the Supramonte Orgosolo and to Urzulei, and in fact acts as a boundary between the territories of two municipalities. Its bottom is covered with smooth white boulders. It can get uncomfortable with hiking trails, the road that leads to Arbatax, but to get, usually, we start from Dorgali. Exit south with the SS125 towards Baunei, take, after about a mile detour on the right towards the town St. Helena. From here follow the signs for the refuge on Gorropu, found in area S'Ortei. Continue to the parking lot before the bridge over river Flumineddu, past the bridge and take a path, which becomes beautiful, but difficult given the large boulders that sometimes you almost have to overcome in climbing. Walking path, more than two hours, door inside the throat, in the bottom of which in periods of high rainfall can be seen sliding Flumineddu river, with a tortuous, including high sheer cliffs. There are cooperatives that provide organizing guided tours, which should apply.

Talana and genetic characteristics of its population  

Urzulei make a detour from the inside. We take the SP37 towards the south, after about 10 km brings us to Talana (682 meters, 1.151 inhabitants), small agro-pastoral center on the eastern edges of the Gennargentu. A Talana can also arrive from the east, with the SP56, from Lotzorai which is about 21 kilometers, or from the south by Villagrande Strisaili with a local road approximately 16 km.

In the village is the Church Parish of Saint Martha. The Church dates back to early 800, when construction began that ended after more than a century. Has a single nave overlooked the chapels. Inside there are several statues, including a sixteenth-century Santa Barbara, san Michele, a devil to walk, santa Marta in the original form and a Sant'Efisio eighteenth century.

Near Talana

Not far from the village, there is a small park Sant'Efisio, with a natural spring, carob and olive trees. Inside the park there is the little country Church or Shrine Sant'Efisio Of the seventeenth century. A legend tells that after the death of a child, the Saint appeared to be desperate father, who promised the construction of the Temple in exchange for finding his son. The miracle would happen and now every year the first Sunday of May or if this Sunday is the next holiday, held a great festival, which opens the cycle of rural fairs across the Ogliastra.

From Urzulei to Barbagia

Back on the SS125, we go through step Genna Sila,1010 meters, after which the road begins to descend again through a picturesque landscape, still inside because the coast with beautiful bays that alternate with high cliffs are accessible only by sea. The road leads us in the Province of Nuoro, and almost 50 km from Baunei reach Dorgali, the capital's tourist Barbagia, which will be described in the next step.

The next leg of our journey

Our journey ended in Ogliastra. In the next stage of our journey then we will start visiting the Province of Nuoro and Barbagia the famous land of barbarians and the Romans so scared that time none of the many invaders of Sardinia has never managed to conquer.

© Claudio de Tisi 2002-2011 - Fiscal Code DTSCLD44M23F132W